AWESOME HOMES MADE OF MUD! | DIY House of Earth

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AWESOME HOMES MADE OF MUD! | DIY House of Earth

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How To Do Your House Framing
By [http://EzineArticles.com/expert/Russell_R._Freeman/161729]Russell R. Freeman

Once the foundation of your house is in place and level, you are ready to proceed with the framing. Of course you remembered to put the bolts in the foundation, 1/2″ bolts at all corners, and not more than 6′ apart in any place.

It has taken a long time to get the lot graded and the foundation in, but the framing will make a big showing in a short time.

When the concrete has hardened for a day or two, the framing can begin. The mud sill, that 2″ x 4″ or 2″ x 6″ piece that rests directly on the con­crete, should be of redwood, cedar, or cypress, or of wood that has been treated to prevent decay or ter­mite damage; lumber is treated with creosote, or metallic salts.

To get the mud sills straight (the concrete may not be as straight as you expected it to be), stretch a line even with the outside of the foundation wall, or where the outer edge of the mud sill is to be. Place the mud sill inside the bolts and against them if possible.

Then measure from the line to the center of the bolts and transfer this distance to the mud sill measuring from the outside of the mud sill. Then take the square and square across the center of the bolts, marking this on the mud sill. This will indicate the places to bore the holes for the bolts. Bore the holes about 1/16″ larger than the bolts.

Put a thin layer of mortar on the wall and press the mud sill down into the soft mortar; place the washers and nuts on the bolts and tighten down on the mud sill until it is exactly level and solidly in place.

If any low places occur, the mud sill can be shimmed up with a shingle driven under it. Then the mortar can be packed back into place with a thin board or the butt end of a shingle. It is highly im­portant to get the mud sill exactly level and straight as all the future building will be based on it.

The girders or sills are then placed across the building on a level with the top of the mud sill and well supported at the places shown on your plans. Often the girders are made 1/8s” to 1/4″ higher in the center of the house than at the outer walls to allow for slight settlement or shrinkage of the tim­ber. Do not overdo this.

The size of the joists depends on the span.

Joists are often fastened at the outer end by a piece of the same size as the joist called a box sill.. This is well nailed with three l6d spikes to the ends of the joists and tends to keep them in line.

If a joist happens to be slightly nar­rower than the rest, it can be pushed up into place with a short piece of shingle. A joist that is wider than the average should be notched at the lower edge so that the top is in line with the others. All joists must come to the same level on top so the floor will be even and level.

Nearly always you will find that joists will have a slight curvature. Put the curve up so that when the joist sags a bit it will be nearer straight than it was before. If you put the crowning side down, the natural sag will make the curvature worse. Be sure to put the crowning side up every time, as this will make a much straighter floor.

After the joists are all placed and spiked to the box sill and to the mud sill, go over the entire area looking for joists that project above the average level of the floor. These can be trimmed off with a hand axe or adze, and should be made level with the aver­age.

You should now be ready to proceed with the sub-floor.

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Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-To-Do-Your-House-Framing&id=1071271] How To Do Your House Framing
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